Phnom Penh originally opened as Beef Stix in 2007, and the sign out front still bears that name. A self-taught cook, Mam opened her version of the restaurant to get out of the real estate business.

Popular dishes include prahok katis ($7.95), ground pork simmered in spicy coconut milk ...

Owner and chef Sambath Bo at Phnom Penh restaurant. Credit: Jay Cronan However, we are not here for the view or fixtures, just a quick meal so we can get back to the freezing courts.